What a leak is usually telling you
Water travels. Where it appears is rarely where it's coming from, which is why guessing at a leak is expensive and tracing it is not.
It only leaks when something is used
That points at waste pipework or a seal, not a pressurised supply pipe. Baths, shower trays, washing machines and dishwashers all leak this way.
It leaks constantly, wet or dry
That's a pressurised supply leak. It will not improve on its own and the volume usually increases. Isolate at the stopcock if the water is visible.
Overflow pipe dripping outside
A float valve or a cistern valve has failed. It is cheap to fix and quietly wastes a lot of water until you do.
Damp with no visible water
Could be a leak under a floor, in a wall, or condensation being mistaken for one. Tracing tells you which before anything gets lifted.
What you can safely check yourself
Two minutes of checking often narrows the job down before we arrive.
- Dry the area completely, then watch it. If it re-wets without anything being used, it's a supply leak.
- Turn off everything that uses water and check whether the meter dial is still moving.
- Run the bath or shower on its own for two minutes and look underneath from the room below.
- Look for the stopcock now, not during an emergency — usually under the kitchen sink or in a downstairs cupboard.
- If a ceiling is bulging with water, do not stand under it. Isolate the supply and call us.
Repair or replace?
A single failed joint on otherwise sound pipework is a repair — it takes minutes and there is no argument for doing more. A corroded section, a pipe that has been patched before, or old imperial copper that is starting to weep in several places is a replace: patching it just moves the leak along the run.
Failed seals around baths, trays and basins are almost always a reseal rather than a rip-out, provided the tray or bath itself is sound and hasn't been flexing. Where the tray moves underfoot, resealing it is a temporary fix and we will say so.
What happens on the visit
- We confirm what you're seeing and isolate anything that's actively leaking.
- We trace it to source — visual inspection, moisture readings, and pressure checks where they're needed.
- You get told what's failed, why, and what it will cost, before any repair work starts.
- Straightforward repairs are usually completed on the same visit.
- Anything larger is quoted in writing with a clear scope, and you decide.
Leaks and insurance
Most UK home insurance policies cover the damage a leak causes, and the cost of finding and getting access to it, rather than the failed pipe itself. That is what a trace and access claim is. If your leak looks like it will need floors lifted or plaster opened, tell us on the visit and we can produce a documented report for your insurer.
What it costs
Real North West ranges, not headline prices. The visit itself is free — the plumber attends and diagnoses at no cost to you; any repair is priced and agreed before it starts.
| Job | Typical range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Visible joint or compression fitting repairSingle accessible joint, no making good. | £90 – £160 | Single accessible joint, no making good. |
| Section of pipework replacedDepends on length, access and pipe material. | £140 – £320 | Depends on length, access and pipe material. |
| Bath, basin or shower tray resealStrip old sealant, clean, reseal and test. | £90 – £180 | Strip old sealant, clean, reseal and test. |
| Leak trace where the source isn't visibleIncludes a written report you can send to an insurer. | £180 – £350 | Includes a written report you can send to an insurer. |
| Under-floor or buried pipe repairAccess, excavation and reinstatement vary enormously. | Quoted after tracing | Access, excavation and reinstatement vary enormously. |
Leak repair — your questions answered
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